*warning - taking video while having the surf board is quite dangerous. On the right video, I was rolled over like I was in a tumble washing machine. :) On the first photo, you would see the wave could be high as a person. Hint: dive at 5-10 degree downward into the mid to bottom part of the wave if you find no place to escape. Otherwise, you would be rolled over and over. When it comes to the shallow part, it is very dangerous to risk your neck joint when your head hit the the bottom. I used to surf on bare hands in Shek O (HK) when I was 10 to 14. Correct - no surfing board, simply because of no money back then. :) ultimate advice from the old Chinese wisdom "you can play with mountain but not water (欺山莫欺水). Never swim alone. Don't swim after the rainstorm as there would be jelly fish (rub with sand slightly on the sting parts and later with some vinegar. If wound gets some water bubbles or dark purple, time to be sent to hospital right away before you get the vomiting or fever). Check the sea current and tide before you go into the water, or ask the resort local guide if not sure. Don't swim at 6-7am or 5-6pm if the water is over 25 degree warm and the water is not clear - sharks become active during these 2 breaks. Of course these are only a few hints. Lots of study.
4 comments:
Wow I almost think this is Tsunami until I read your writing.
I am impressed you can surf bare- handed. You make me think of the surfing scene from "Hawaii Five O". I still remember the music. Well, you are too young for that my friend.
The Tsunami is much thicker and the current is way too strong for you not even to grab anything. It's not that difficult for bare-handed surfing when the wave is at about 3-4 feet, but of course if it's over 5 feet, it's another story. :)
Hi Hawaii Five O,
I just noticed your camera really captured the wave very well.
Yes, nowadays many compact cameras are very nice.
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